: First of all, isn't it R1? :)
: And yes, I think it is a R-whatever, because it has the front lip and the rear spoiler. Also looks like it doesn't have a sunroof, which I believe was only available on the touring models.
: Am I right Don? :)Yes, mine is an R2, which were offered 94-95. R-2's were actually softened a bit because of the ride harshness of the R-1's in 93. The changes came in the suspension pieces, some of the bushings and a smaller rear sway bar. Yet, lateral acceleration virtually stayed the same at .98-.99 G's and the harshness is still pretty much there although I've never driven an R1. Yes, they require more maintenance than a Z. Fuel filter should be changed every 15K miles. Anywhere between 7.5K-15K miles for sparkplugs. Oil changes with dino oil every 1K-2K miles. Before modding them you must do a few 'reliability' modifications to FD's:
cooler thermostat, fan modification(switch to allow fans to run during operation and for 10 mins after shutdown), more efficient radiator, fuel pump upgrade if boost levels start to raise above stock, downpipe-which reduces underhood heat as well as for performance, an aftermarket knock sensor from J&S is a good idea, and the most important thing is to have all 78 vacumn lines replaced with silicon hoses and tie-wrapped down. These lines control the complicated sequential operation of the turbos. If one line is cracked or blown off, the turbo system if essentially crippled. Another thing is when you start to modify an FD, your going to have to do an ECU upgrade after say an intake and exhaust. Usually after adding an IC or downpipe or anything else that adds more boost or air through the engine, you will start to run VERY lean. The problem is the FD doesnt utilize a MAF sensor like a Z does. It has a sort of MAP sensor where it can only guess at how much air is actually going through the system and not measure it. Rotary engines by design run hotter than reciprocating engines and are more susceptible to knock as well. It only takes one or two 'Pings' to destroy an apex seal and then your motor is blown. Once they are set-up correctly as I have mentioned above, they are actually quite reliable. It's unfortunate that this knowledge was only discovered a few years ago which is why FD's have gotten such a bad reputation. Alot of cars spent more time at the dealerships than on the road when they were first brought out. Many times these cars came back worse than when they were brought in. Mazda technicians were inadequately trained to diagnose a car that was more complex than the model before it. FD's handle power modifications fairly well for the size of their motors. But they were more designed for road racing and not BIG hp numbers such as monster turbo upgrades and ported motors as the price for such becomes high. I plan on dynoing in a month or two and I'll post my numbers then. Don
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